Whole hazelnuts are shown here with products made with them: hazelnut liqueur and a bar of dark chocolate with hazelnuts. Photo by Esther Oertel.
Hazelnuts remind me of Britain and Beatrix Potter, Italy and sweet liqueur, nutty chocolate bars and Austrian tortes, Turkish desserts and nut-crusted meats.
While not as common in our cuisine as walnuts or almonds, these versatile spheres nonetheless add their distinctive mark in both savory and sweet dishes.
Hazelnuts are products of the shrub-like hazel tree native to temperate areas in the northern hemisphere. Varieties of wild hazelnuts grow throughout North America.
Also known as filberts, hazelnuts are produced in commercial quantities in Turkey, Greece, Italy and the U.S.
Turkey is by far the biggest producer worldwide, and in this country more than 90 percent of cultivated hazelnuts are grown in the fertile valleys of Oregon.
These small, round nuts encased in hard shells are typically harvested in late summer, but a necessary drying period means they’re released into the market during the winter months. Like most nuts, they’re available year-round.
Recent archaeological evidence indicates that large-scale processing of hazelnuts, including roasting, took place in Scotland more than 9,000 years ago. Ancient Romans cultivated hazelnuts, and Celtic folklore attributed wisdom and inspiration to the nut.
Hazelnuts are typically thought of as an ingredient in sweet cooking. They’re a popular component of many an indulgent dessert, including pralines, truffles, chocolate confections and rich tortes.
In addition to their place in the sugary realm, they’re used successfully in a panoply of savory dishes, including crushed as a crust for meats, combined with cheeses for appetizers, mixed with mushrooms or broccoli in side dishes, in pastas and stir-fries, in sauces and a variety of salads.
Hazelnuts also lend their nutty taste to coffee and products for use in this beverage.
The dark brown skins that are present on raw hazelnuts are sometimes a little bitter. Roasting the nuts not only enriches their flavor, but loosens the skin for easy removal.
To roast hazelnuts, use a low oven, about 275 degrees Fahrenheit. Place raw, shelled hazelnuts on a baking sheet in one layer. Put them in the preheated oven for 20 to 30 minutes, until the skins crack and the nut meats are a light golden color.
To remove the skin, pour the warm nuts into a clean terry cloth towel, wrap it shut, and allow them to steam for several minutes. Then rub vigorously within the towel for a minute or more.
The nuts may be roasted at a higher temperature, if desired, but should be watched closely.
If hazelnuts are stored in an airtight bag or container, they’ll keep in the freezer for a year or more. The next best place to store them is in the fridge. Bring them to room temperature before use in cooking or baking.
Sweet liqueur is made from hazelnuts. Italy’s Frangelico, which is also flavored with toasted coffee, cocoa, vanilla, and rhubarb root, is perhaps the most popular brand.
Hazelnut liqueur may be made at home using vodka as a base. Ingredients such as vanilla and allspice add flavor along with chopped hazelnuts, and sugar syrup sweetens the mixture. It’s aged for two weeks, strained, and aged for three weeks more.
Hazelnut flour, the meal made from grinding hazelnuts, adds a wonderful flavor and chewy texture to breads, cakes, pie crusts, and other baked desserts. The flour may be purchased at specialty stores, ordered online from companies such as King Arthur’s Flour or Bob’s Red Mill, or made at home with a food processor or spice grinder.
If you want to try your hand at making the flour at home, freeze the hazelnuts overnight first. Frozen nuts will break down more before the natural oils come out. Grinding hazelnuts without freezing may leave you with hazelnut butter, which makes for a nice spread, but it’s not what you’re after.
Pulse the frozen nuts in a food processor until most of the nuts have been reduced to a powder. Sift the powdered nuts through a fine mesh strainer so that only the finest ground flour remains.
If making hazelnut flour at home, be sure to create only what’s needed for your recipe. If you have extra flour, store the remainder in the freezer. When kept at room temperature, the oils in the flour will break down quickly, causing it to become rancid.
Expeller pressed hazelnuts produce a delicate oil with a distinctly nutty flavor. Since heat destroys its flavor, it’s best used as a dressing for salads. It works beautifully in vinaigrette dressings, especially when combined with fruity or sherry vinegars.
Since its taste compliments citrus fruits, raspberries, and cheeses such as feta, goat, Gruyere or Taleggio, these ingredients make nice additions to salads dressed with hazelnut oil. Toasted hazelnuts also compliment dressings made with the oil, and greens such as endive and mache work well with it.
Hazelnut oil can also be used as a substitute for olive oil in pesto, as it easily absorbs basil’s spicy flavor notes. It’s wonderful tossed with hot vegetables as an alternative to butter.
Similar to hazelnut flour, the oil can easily go rancid. It’s best to buy it in small quantities and use within a few weeks of purchase. I recommend storing it in the refrigerator to lengthen its shelf life.
Like other nuts, hazelnuts may be ground to make spreadable nut butter. Toast the hazelnuts first, then, when cool, grind them in a blender or food processor until a paste is formed.
A homemade version of Nutella, the deliciously addictive chocolate-hazelnut spread, may be made by adding a sweetener such as sugar, honey, or agave nectar, along with unsweetened cocoa.
Hazelnuts are rich in protein and unsaturated fat. They also contain significant amounts of thiamine and vitamin B6, as well as smaller amounts of other B vitamins. Vitamin E, dietary fiber and certain types of antioxidants are included in their nutritional profile, as well.
Today’s hazelnut recipe is one that caught my eye and made my mouth water: banana-hazelnut bruschetta.
Doesn’t that sound like an amazing treat?
We’re used to thinking of bruschetta as a savory appetizer with fresh tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and basil, but the term “bruschetta” refers to the toasted bread on which any topping may be served. So, why not a sweet version?
If you’re curious, take a gander below.
As an added bonus, for a homey, savory take on lasagna made with hazelnuts and butternut squash, visit www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Butternut-Squash-and-Hazelnut-Lasagne-105911.
I thought it sounded just too wonderful not to share.
In closing, if winter seems bleak, think of the hazel tree, which blooms this time of year, in midwinter. It also bears nuts for centuries.
Bon appétit!
Banana-hazelnut bruschetta
French bread baguette
2 sliced bananas
Butter
Sugar
Salt
Hazelnut butter
Whipping cream
Vanilla
Chopped hazelnuts
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
Thinly slice the baguette and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet.
Brush with softened butter and sprinkle with salt and sugar.
Bake until lightly golden, about 7 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Meanwhile, toss two sliced bananas with one tablespoon melted butter and spread in a single layer on a baking sheet.
Sprinkle with sugar and bake until golden, about 10 minutes.
Whip cream, flavor with vanilla and lightly sweeten with sugar.
Spread hazelnut butter on the toasted baguette slices. Top with the roasted bananas, whipped cream and chopped hazelnuts.
Recipe courtesy of www.FoodNetwork.com.
Esther’s note: Purchase hazelnut butter in a specialty market or make it at home as indicated in the column above.
Esther Oertel, a freelance writer, cooking teacher, and speaker, is passionate about local produce and all foods in the vegetable kingdom. She welcomes your questions and comments and may be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
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